Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
